RSSWrong Colours Away From The Face : At 12 Blueprints
October 4, 2009
Another colour article. It’s what’s in my head when I look at people, you know?
There is a long-standing discussion about whether you can wear black, or any colour that is not in your personal colour palette, as long as it is not near your face.
Of course, it comes down to taste and how relaxed you feel about your appearance. To my eye, it usually doesn’t work, except in certain situations.
As an overall rule, the darkest colour that will work on you is the darkest tone in your hair. When Reese Witherspoon wears black pants, the eye of the beholder will be drawn to the black. The weight and intensity of that colour is stronger than the intensity of her own colouring.
Where conflict exists in the world of colour, one will win and one will lose. The winner should always be YOU. Specifically, it should always be YOUR EYES. When the skin is perfectly calm and there’s nothing going on making the complexion busy, the focal point becomes the eyes.
This picture is not in focus. My children can’t sit still that long. I hope it still shows the effect. No photo effects have been applied. My lipstick is too light, but oh well. My brother told me that I have to stop dressing like a 17 year old, even if AEO and A&F are comfortable, so I’m trying to wear professional clothes (which I’ve discovered is very difficult, because the more professional the clothes, the more boring and masculine the colours, depressing for the Summers and Springs, but not much better for the rest of us. If I went on Dragon’s Den, it would be to develop a line of beautiful, colour-correct professional clothing for women. And makeup to match. That’s my secret dream, ay? A colour empire. All the legwork is done for you. You walk into the store. You walk over to your Season Section. Done. ). All that aside, there is some sort of connection that your right colours have with your eyes.
Reese, with her $20,000/month beauty bill, can wear black. But we’re not Reese. Besides, there are still many colours Reese can wear far better than black.
What are the exceptions? Or more precisely, who among the non-Winters can wear black, since black on a Winter is a given?
The Bright Spring can do it, away from the face, and depending on the intensity and darkness of the colouring. Too near the face, you risk the older-and-tired effect of black, but with your brights, it works.
The Dark Autumn can do it, away from the face, to cool and contrast the heat in their native colouring. As the most Wintery of the Autumns, and with your dark hair, you can carry and balance this colour.
The Winterish Summers can do it, away from the face, and greatly softened with Summer colours and clothing details. Summer is a feminine season. Add flowers, lace, softly sheer fabric, and your beautiful rose colours.
Read the full article at 12 Blueprints.
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11 Responses to “Wrong Colours Away From The Face : At 12 Blueprints”
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Please speak more on wearing black. I am an Autumn, probably medium or deep, and black at my face makes me look dead. What then, to do about “the little black dress” and so many gorgeous black turtlenecks, blazers, sweaters, etc.? You may have told us there are different kinds of black, “warm black” being one of them. I cannot wrap my mind around what that looks like, much less being able to identify it in stores. So I gave up on black next to my face a long time ago. I can’t wear the basic white shirt, either. They don’t make many shirts in ivory. It makes life so difficult!
Any tips on black would be appreciated! Thanks for sharing your expertise. Most of all, we trust that you are honest with your readers and that’s priceless!
Hi Christine,
Thank you for posting this very insightful article. I’ve been reading a bit on colour analysis and I was also wondering what other seasons could pull off black besides the winter season.
The reason that I am asking is because I tend to wear lots of black, usually with a lighter colours and I think it’s fine even thought I don;t think I’m a winter season. (I have light brown hair and a very light, almost porcelain skintone).
My parents, on the other hand, who self-analyzed themselves as a “clear winter” and a “clear spring”,don’t like to wear black even thought it is both of those colour palettes.
In your time of analyzing people’s colours, have you personally come across many who could pull of black and were not winters? Or is this generally an exception to the rule? Also, have you come across any winters (or winter blends) that couldn’t wear this colour?
Thanks,
Jelena
Hi, Cheryl,
Good question about what “warm black” looks like. To me, it’s the color of black espresso coffee. It is the blackest brown. Only in good light, can you see that it is actually brown.
A Dark Autumn can do black reasonably well, usually. After all, Autumn’s defining characteristics are dark colours, along with warmth and muted colours. A True Autumn doesn’t glow in black or white.
I agree that True (medium) or Dark Autumn are not good in white. The lighter Soft Autumn can do a creamy white.
If you cannot do black or white, why try? Even if you can do black, I always wonder why (other than it is the most common colour in stores). Everyone else is doing black. Why look like everyone else? Autumn in deep chocolate brown, eggplant, teals, even midnight blues for the darker ones, mahogany, chestnut, maroon, black/brown, charcoal create a look that crackles like a bonfire. Wear cream, oyster, honey, chamois, even avocado and apricot as neutrals. Autumn colours are spectacular in their rich naturalness. Work that look instead of one that doesn’t feel familiar and right to you.
Hi, Jelena,
Great questions. Dark Autumn, Bright Spring, and Winterish True Summers can wear black, as can the 3 Winter seasons. All the Winters can wear black – but I agree that it’s necessarily their best colour. I’m a Dark Winter and I’m told that stark black and white are not my best. With other colours, they work much better.
I think the problem stems from the fact that people don’t know what skin effects they’re looking for to be able to say a colour works or doesn’t, both on themselves and on others. Once you’ve seen what “clearing of the skin” looks likes, as well as the other effects, you look at those colours and the people wearing them differently. I don’t believe anyone can analyze themselves, nobody is that objective. We’ll talk more about this when we meet. Bring many questions.
An interesting debate again! Having been recently diagnosed as a deep autumn, I was told I could wear black, but maybe not as well as when I was younger, as my hair has “lightened” (with a little help!) from very dark brown to middish warm brown, so to wear a coloured scarf at the neck in my colours, bag, etc if I do attempt to wear it. I am also very pale skinned, if yellow tone, not pink. Having bought the black coat, partly because it does go with everything, I am now thinking of returning it. It do feel it makes me look a bit washed out on reflection and everyone, of every colour grouping seems to work around in black coats (well here in the UK anyway). I have seen an olive green, close to my eye colour, which maybe will work better with jeans and black trousers, and not look so funereal head to toe in total black (even with scarves). Once again, I would say listern to these colour experts like Christine and get your colours done by her or another expert, as it is almost impossible to diagnose yourself; I work with colour as a textile artist and commercial designer, but still couldn’t “see” myself accurately nor the subtle changes as I aged.
Trisha,
Many image consultants will say that your hair colour is an excellent base for clothing colour and that eye colour is automatically a colour that works for you. Technically, it’s true because Colour Analysis is just a process of revealing the precise shades in your own biology – hair, skin, eyes. The question is, how good are you at discerning the colour in your biology? As you say, it is very hard to do on yourself.
I don’t see black as a big block working so well on a Dark Autumn, though it’s better than the light Summer-type colours. I’m a Dark Winter and a big black block is not my best look. Learning to wear YOUR colours WITH black may work better, using their heat to make the black more vivid and warm. Still, I’d go with the green or a beautiful brown because black is so overdone that it’s become boring. It has no imagination.
A Deep Autumn should have many choices in coats and the fabric texture is perfect for the person and the colours. Eggplant, brick, bronze … oh, it can be so much more than black! Never blend in!
You know, this makes sense. I noticed years ago that I look better in dark, dark grey than I do in black, and this concept explains why.
I’m a Soft Autumn and I know that black is frightfully bad on me. I don’t have any black tops or pants. My question concerns shoes.
I have 6 pairs of expensive black shoes and boots that I bought before my color analysis. I was wearing them with dark wash blue jeans. I know brown and cognac shoes look much better on me, and I’ve bought some shoes in those colors.
My usual outfits are camel, khaki, chocolate brown, or olive green tops with chocolate brown pants or dark wash jeans.
Am I compromising my look too much by wearing black shoes with these outfits? Should I sell them on ebay or give them to charity or something?
Caroline,
Well, you know, it depends more on your taste than mine. Very few women are as purist about colour as I am. It may depend on how dark your colouring is. Sometimes, the hair deepens a fair bit with age. The trick is to wear your hair colour. It will balance the footwear better, though it will never accord with your clothes. Also, if you wear black shoes only with your darkest pants, it maintains the essential concept for the Soft Seasons of avoiding sudden colour transitions or strong contrast.
I was recently analyzed as a Soft Autumn…a big switch in thinking for me. I have been used to wearing black and hot pink! I really do look better with a softer look.
I would like to ask about the comment above regarding avoiding sudden colour transitions or strong contrast for the Soft Autumn season. I can see immediately that the comments ‘feel’ right for the season. My question is what to do with the brighter colors in the palette….like a clear turquoise or an almost too bright purple?? When I wear those colors, they seem too bright even if they do match the swatch! Comments??
Dianna,
That entire palette, if it’s correctly made, should mix-and-match automatically because every color is of the same degree of warmth and saturation. Now, because it’s a Neutral Season, there are both heat and coolness present, so the palette offers warmer and cooler choices. Almost any of the colours together just blend together effortlessly, and would not cause you to look like a color riot. Contrast means light and dark, so I might not pair my lightest lights with my darkest darks within the palette.
Also, there is a principle when using neutrals, of which your palette has many, of 1 color + 2 neutrals that may help you incorporate the colors you feel are stronger.
The article http://12blueprints.com/adriane-is-a-soft-autumn/ may help.