Makeup Model : Clear Spring

June 28, 2009

This is the yellow undertone of Spring moving closer to the neutral line till it flips to its sister season of Clear Winter. Sometimes, the hair is so dark with very brown eyes that the person is mistakenly classifyied with the high contrast of Winters. Clear Spring is the only season outside of Winter that can pull off black clothing.

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Makeup Model : Clear Winter

June 16, 2009

I get a lot of emails from women who know they’re Winter but don’t know which one. Good on them to know that there are 3 versions of each season. The Clear Winter (Sci\ART’s Bright Winter) is the bridge to Spring. That means that it still respects the deep, clear, dark colors of all Winters, and is predominantly cool, but it is just slightly warmed by yellow.

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Makeup Model : Warm Spring

June 5, 2009

We can’t shop for clothes without wondering “Is this my color?”  At the makeup counter, we’re at the mercy of the taste of the salesperson or we just stick to the safe rut we’re in, resulting in 5 of the same shade of lip color rattling around the bottom of our purse. Not only are we not objective about ourselves in any way, but we don’t know what to look for.

Yes No.

 The truth is that nobody knows their innate colors. Nobody. Famous and rich people get it wrong all the time. Until they’ve been analyzed, nobody knows their colors. Personal color analysts (PCAs) can’t guess their own seasons till they get draped or see themselves in many different colors (often many shades of the same color, red being particularly telling).

How controlled the lighting and background have to be depends on the analyst, as does the importance of hair and eye color. As with anything, there are many ways of arriving at the answer. With anesthesia, it’s not so much which drug you’re using as how well you know that drug. There is no right or wrong, no best or worst. There is an analogy here in that it’s not so much which color system you choose as how well the PCA knows that system.

Women might say “I wear a lot of white and navy.” Whatever. Navy and white might be better in your kitchen than on your body. Nobody can experiment with sure success till they’ve been color coded. Nobody knows their undertones. They might know their overtones but that’s not really helpful for making buying decisions. So if you don’t know your colors, don’t feel bad. 99% of the world doesn’t either.

Yes No 1.

Climbing down off my soapbox. I’ve just been at the Clinique counter and I look at the money women put down. As you know, I like MAC and Clinique. They don’t have everything but the price is manageable, the color selection is 6.5 out of 10, the application is 7 out of 10 (Clinique) and 8.8 (MAC) and most women can find these lines.

“Warm Spring” is a Color Me Beautiful label which allows for a flowing of any given season towards another, in this case Spring towards Autumn. This season doesn’t exist in all the color systems. Nonetheless, the 3 Spring seasons’ colors in any system are warmed by yellow and are clear.  When I chose the colors below, I was working with Sci\Art’s True Spring swatch book.

 If you’re Warm Spring, you have noticeable gold, orange, copper, or strawberry tones in your hair but your skin is still warmed by yellow.  You are too fair to move into the golder, hardier-looking skin of an Autumn. Think of Nicole Kidman (notice how dark her eyebrows always are?  they are seldom bleached to match her hair; may be deeper coloring than Spring going on here). Delicate skin, almost fragile looking. It’s skin that looks like it’s trying to have freckles but often doesn’t because it’s just so fair.

Actress-Nicole-Kidma-4ab3be8873bc

Your colors are moving towards the browner tones of Autumn. Blush and lip colors are coral and apricot, so stronger than peach and with some brown in them but still bright and lively. Warm Spring can take a lot of color.

Lips: All Springs should know about MAC Lustreglass in Instant Gold to warm and reduce the strength of many lip colors, and add a light yellow-gold shimmer; MAC Prolongwear in Clingpeach if you like this type of product.

Clinique Lipsticks in Golden Brandy, Peach Pop, Poppy Love, and Ripe Raisin.

Blush: NARS Luster or Gilda; NARS makes fantastic blush but demands a light application to look normal.  Estee Lauder Pink Kiss might work.

Bobbi Brown PotRouge in Calypso Coral.

Eyeliner: Clinique Roast Coffee.

MAC Industry might work as a slightly warmed grey. Clinique Slate is too sharply grey as is MAC Grey Utility. 

Eyeshadow: Clinique Butter Pecan and Copper Canyon. In the singles, Champagne was good. In the creams, Sable Shimmer Touch Tint is nice but awfully shiny.

MAC Camel which they no longer make, darn them, it was a superb color … MAC, bring back Camel!!!!

Eye hilite :  Paula’s Choice Cream or Chiffon.

Mascara : Black-Brown.

Bronzer: MAC Golden, a truly good product.

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We can’t shop for clothes without wondering “Is this my color?” At the makeup counter, we’re at the mercy of the taste of the salesperson.
The truth is that nobody knows their innate colors. Nobody. Famous and rich people get it wrong all the time. Until they’ve been analyzed, nobody knows their colors.
And undertones?? Are you kidding?

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Makeup Model : Light Spring

May 16, 2009

This is a big range of women. You’re Ellen and Kate Hudson (or at least, Kate looks like Light Spring. Have you seen Ellen’s pic from high school? Reddish hair. Although the blond hair she wears is beautifully done, sometimes I think it makes her eyes look bloodshot. Ellen, you need to don the gray showercap and draping cape of truth and uncover who you really are). You can be the fairest softest coloring and you can be the blond beach ideal.

Daffodils also known as narcis.

In general, Spring looks better in peach than pink. If you think you like both, what you might be liking is the lightness of the two shades. The basis of color analysis is understanding what the colors that flatter you best have in common. So, we’ll have to push the extremes to decide if you’re Light Spring or Light Summer. Take the peach all the way to coral in clothing or makeup – only the Spring will pull it off, while the Summer will be more beautiful in a cooler rose pink color.

Or try the ultimately Springs Only color of yellow-green. Summer would probably refuse to even put the item on and negotiate hard for cool, light turquoise. Spring would be sneaking the yellow-green into her purse.

Gladiolus in garden.

Light Spring represents that type of coloring that is most prominently Spring (warmed by clear yellow) but has some cool carryover from Summer. Your colors follow suit, with pink-peach instead of pure peach or yellow colors, and tan-brown instead of golden brown in your eyeshadow.

 Colors to sample

 Lips: Clinique Colour Surge Butter Shine in Pink-a-boo; look at Poppy Love while you’re there. I love these lipsticks, so wearable and comfortable.

Eyeliner: Estee Lauder Softsmudge Brown.

Eyes: MAC BrownDown, Kid, Wedge; Stila Champara, Tolima.

Eye hilite : MAC Wisp, BlancType; Stila Chinois.

   I am loving the blog The Next Best Thing To Going Shopping Yourself (TNBTTGSY) for the swatch posts. Follow the link to see the MAC eyeshadows. On the site, you’ll also find all the Stila eyeshadows swatched in a different post. Shop at home thanks to the wonderful woman who does all this work.

Look very attentively at the iris of your eye. Is there a soft yellow in it? Many Spring eyes have a yellow light in their eyes to correspond with the yellow light that their entire body coloring emanates. If you see that color there, emphasize it with a yellowish hilite. Have you looked at Paula’s Choice Chiffon? It is fantastically colored, fantastically matte, and fantastically priced.

Mascara : Dark Brown – be sure it’s darker than your eyeliner or the liner can look too harsh.

Bronzer :  This is light skin. It can handle warmer tones but in a gentle dose. MAC Select Sheer Pressed powder goes on well and some of the lighter shades have some peachiness that could work as bronzer for this group. Go easy with the application so you don’t end up with an overly colorful face. That’s just practice.

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In general, Spring looks better in peach than pink. If you think you like both, what you might be liking is the lightness of the two shades. The basis of color analysis is understanding what the colors that flatter you best have in common.

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Makeup Model : Deep Winter

May 6, 2009

How do you know if you’re Deep Winter?

Dark eyes and dark hair are common but not a requirement. Your skin can go from Porcelain to Ebony so that’s not helpful.

So, Penelope Cruz is a classic Deep Winter…or at least, she looks like she would be. She can wear black but she has some ability to wear a few warmer colors. Her best spectrum wouldn’t be as cool and sharp as Elizabeth Taylor’s whom you just wouldn’t put in rust.

What about Salma Hayek? If you’re not sure, push the extremes of the 2 possibilities. Deep Winter holds the neutral line with Deep Autumn, where Deep Winter is cooler. You could take a Deep Winter all the way to blue-black hair and red-violet lips and they’d still look pretty good. You could take a Deep Autumn to bronze hair and beyond to orange-brown and it would be wearable.  I can see Salma in the black hair and violet lips. I do not see her in orange hair.

Salma-Hayek-40f7b144f2f9

Now, this doesn’t work backwards. You can’t assume red hair is automatically Autumn. Not at all. Often they’re Spring or Summer, many times, Winter. Why do books keep showing Autumn with red hair? I don’t know. Maybe because red hair goes well with orange clothing (analogous colors), so the extrapolation says the person must be Autumn. The closer to orange the hair, the more possibility it belongs to an Autumn.

Julia Roberts has dark hair and eyes. Since blue-black hair and purple lips would be ghoulish, but orange-brown hair is good, she’s likely a Deep Autumn.

Keira Knightley? Tricky. Very  difficult. I’ve seen people conclude both. I side with Deep Winter but black hair isn’t perfect; neither is orange hair. This auburn here is good, and a Deep Winter can do auburn. It’s creating some odd shadowing around her nose and yellow around her mouth but it may be the makeup or lighting. For me, her eyes are more arresting and her makeup better in pure Winter colors. They might clear the yellow and turn her skin to milk. Maybe she’s neither. This is a woman who probably needs to be draped in person to figure this out.

Keira-Knightley-atte-4fd19338f894

Jeanne Tripplehoorn? I cannot see her in orange hair.

Jessica Alba? She’s almost surely Deep something but her hair’s been dark and her lips have been cool red lately and I think it looks forced.  I see her better in orange, tawnies, copper colors. Likely some sort of Autumn. With the dark neutral brown hair below, her skin looks washed out and the creases from nose to corners of mouth become noticeable.

Actress-Jessica-Alba-4a6d8c7dfa94

Sophia Loren? She can have quite lion-colored hair and bronze lips, so she’s Deep, but it’s probably Autumn.

Anne Hathaway? Blacker hair and redder lips work fine. If ever skin had a lack of warmth, that would be it. She is surely Winter, the incarnation of Miss Snow White. Is she Deep Winter, or cooler yet as Clear Winter or Cool Winter? Probably Cool Winter, because I don’t see much compliment from warmed reds, but who knows without drapes.

Katie Holmes? I can see auburn hair or wine hair but not orange hair. She can wear rust and tomato red as well as the cool dark colors, so probably a Deep Winter.

Colors

Lips:  NARS  Dolce Vita Sheer Lipstick and lipgloss are good cool coral colors; the gloss is gorgeous in texture and durability, as are all NARS glosses.

Now you need a plum-violet color: Mary Kay Berry Kiss is about as blue-pink as you can go, but this is a nice one (bluer, pinker, and brighter than the picture below). If it seems too pink, try Whipped Berries, warmed up just a little but so slightly foggier and darker, for darker women.

Mary Kay Amber Suede appears more orange and it goes on very dark and pigmented. If you blot if well and apply a gloss over top, the color left behind is quite lovely, again for darker women.

 

L to R, Whipped Berries, Amber Suede, Garnet Frost, Berry Kiss

L to R, Whipped Berries, Amber Suede, Garnet Frost, Berry Kiss

 

Are you looking at these thinking “I thought she said she doesn’t like dark lips?”. I am. The thing is, once you find a color of makeup that repeats a color already in your face (a concept we’ll come back to often) or body, it’s amazing how heavily you can apply it. You can literally pack it on and it looks real because you already have the color in you. Maybe I’ve made this point too obviously, but you see, herein lies the strength of color analysis. It will identify the colors that were used to paint YOU.

So what is your “color-within” lip, your neutral, since those above are all pinkish : MAC Slimshine in Scant will be close. It contains some brown, as this season needs since it’s the bridge between Autumn and Winter.

Much as I believe in neutral makeup, I think all 3 women up there look a little flat with lips the same color as their face. I need to come up with a new term. Neutral means neither warm nor cool, a medium tone type of beige or brown or gray. Many would call the lips in those photos neutral. When I say neutral, I extend the definition to include “any color already in your face is your neutral”.

However, I’m realizing that’s confusing and seems contradictory. Nude just means “like you have nothing on”. Maybe the word I need is Natural. That seems to work. I’m thinking as I type so it’s coming out stream-of-consciousness here. I’ll clarify in a separate post because I just thought of it now.OK, shut up, Christine, and get on with it.

If you still think these are dark, mix them with a clear gloss or a lighter lip color like Estee Lauder Elizabeth Pink.

Good ol’ Clinique Black Honey lip gloss that you see in every magazine suits this group nicely.

Body Shop 05 (I believe the color is Strawberry) can work as a bright.

Blush: Your color-within “natural” blush : take a close look at MAC Breath of Plum. 

If you want to put a little more on it, Clinique Berry Delight is a good cool coral to go with Dolce Vita lipstick or gloss (don’t buy Dolce Vita blush, it’s too dusty red-brown; NARS Amour is a better contender – Winter is a season of color clarity, not dullness).

And the red-violet blush to go with the lips above : Mary Kay Bold Berry ; Clinique Breathless Berry is cooler than Berry Delight but not as cool as Bold Berry.

Eyeliner: Clarins Waterproof eyeliner in 03 Grey, a sparkly dark grey; Annabelle Kohl Eyeliner in 77 Charcoal, terribly smudgy but great color so powder over it.

Winter is the only group that can wear black eyeliner if the depth of their coloring supports it. If not, the darkest grey or black-coffee brown are darker colors that appear less hard.

Eyeshadow: Clinique Totally Neutral ; MaryKay makes Charcoal eye shadow, a lovely matte midtone dove grey for the cooler women.  Paula’s Choice Charcoal is also a beautiful matte grey-brown, more brown than the MaryKay, a fantastic shade for those who are close to Deep Autumn but need the coolness of Winter.

Your natural color : Merle Norman Mink.

Eye hilite : Paula’s Choice Beige. ( Note that Paula’s Choice is selling off her eyeshadows for $4 or less. These are great products, perfectly matte, all available as samples. You will never find a better beauty deal anywhere.)

Within each season, there can be great variety of hair, eye, and skin tone so these color suggestions are generalities. I’m a Deep Winter. Once I get my hair color adjusted, I’ll show you how it looks. Just changing the makeup has made a big difference. Good thing I buy my clothes at Value Village or we’d be living on a raft.

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How do you know if you’re Deep Winter?
Dark eyes and dark hair are common but not a requirement. Your skin can go from Porcelain to Ebony so that’s not helpful.
So, Penelope Cruz is a classic Deep Winter…or at least, she looks like she would be. She can wear black but she has some ability to wear a few warmer colors. Her best spectrum wouldn’t be as cool and sharp as Elizabeth Taylor’s whom you just wouldn’t put in rust.

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Makeup Model : Soft Summer

April 21, 2009

Soft Summer and Soft Autumn can be similar. You could be Jennifer Aniston or Amanda Bynes, respectively (or, these women give the impression of these Seasons). In the wrong colors, you can look blah. Hair is neither light or dark. Skin is neither either.  You can get lost in medium-ness. Getting your colors right is what takes you from medium everything to fabulosity.

Jennifer-Aniston-43ed8d637f43

Amanda-Bynes-is-Hot--43e9999ff4c4

These two seasons hold hands to straddle a neutral line very closely. Both have some warmth, but the Autumn season has more. Many Soft Summer women color their brown hair to look warmer when they would look better in a more neutral brown or cooler brown.

If Cool Summer, coolest of all, has enough blue to be look best in lilac-pink,

Lilacs.

and Light Summer is so fair that cotton-candy-pink is most appealing,

Algod and atildeo doce.

you’re the next level of warmth.

Flower.

You are still defined by what is predominantly Summer, so coolness, lightness (but that’s also deepening now), and muted haziness. It’s that color so many companies create in a blush and call it Desert Rose.

Lipstick:  Bobbi Brown Italian Rose ; Laura Mercier Gilded Garden collection Hibiscus (English Rose might work too but appears brown enough to be more Soft Autumn), swatched here by the wonderful karlasugar that I’ve introduced before. This woman is saving us time and money, and teaching about color by comparison.

Blush: Dior English Rose ;  NARS Deep Throat.

Eyeliner: MAC Technakohl Earthline ;  EsteeLauder Automatic Eye Pencil Duo Walnut.

Eyeshadow: Dior Flirty Brown; MAC Malt, Quarry, Copperplate; Just looking for Suede Brown here. Get an idea of the shades from karlasugar’s most amazing MAC eyeshadow swatch post. Vote for her with the Best Blog About Stuff button on her site. 

Eye hilite : MAC Vapor, which you can see at MAC’s eyeshadow page or at karlasugar (last box in the MAC eyeshadow article).

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Soft Summer and Soft Autumn hold hands to straddle a neutral line very closely. Both have some warmth, but the Autumn season has more.

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Makeup Model : Light Summer

March 31, 2009

The palest pinkest women.  A friend of mine sees a dermatologist who refers to her coloring as “you pasty white chicks”. That’s got to be Light Summer.

Remember Cool Summer’s gray-silver-ash brown hair? This season is light blond to white blond. The blond is not overly golden and certainly not red. The hair could also be light brown. As with Cool Summer, the keyword is ash. That’s means greyish-brown, kind of like the taupe of hair color. A Light Summer in warm brown hair is killing off what little color she has in her complexion.

But NOT platinum, like on Christina Aguilera. Platinum is too harsh, almost metallic in its lightness, though a few thin streaks could work among other light blond colors. All-platinum might work on some Winters but Summer wouldn’t go beyond a very pale blond. A child would might be flaxen or almost white, but not silvery/metallic.

Christina-Aguilera-473a84b206bf

This is an easy season to makeup. Just stay pink and light.

 

Reese looks great, better than the too-yellow-gold hair she often wears. She looks young and shines with an inner energy and light. Her eyes don’t look pale or faded. Her lipcolor is dark for the softness of her color scheme so my eye is continuously distracted by it. There is often a tendency for these women to wear vibrant colors because they feel it might bring color to the face, or the marketing industry told them a “pop” of color was in, but their coloring is easily overwhelmed. 

Reese Witherspoon

The most difficult makeup choice this group has to make is with bronzer/contour. You can struggle at the makeup counter with all the too-yellow-for-you bronzers, and that includes the light and golden ones most of the time.

Or you can go the drugstore, look at Almay and Revlon, or any other non-animal-tested choices, and pick a powder a little darker than your skin. Beige. Not peach. Just the next shade deeper than what would be a match. Call it a day.

Oh, no wait. They’ve packaged their powders so that you can’t see them. How clever.  Is this why we all end up at MAC and Sephora eventually?

MAC always has some of the best options for recreating skin’s real life colors, at a decent price point, with colors you can test. Their Select Sheer Pressed Powder is nice to use for its sheerness. Many of the shades have a peachiness that can work well as a bronzer for many seasons. This group, who just can’t take very yellow pigments, and certainly not orange, don’t want to end up with an overly colorful face. You should stick with pressed powders that are skin-tone beige. Remember though that this group also represents the Summer/Spring fusion with Summer coolness predominant. A slight hint of peach may be worth trying on those of you who can wear a few of Spring’s yellower shades.

MAC Mineralize Skinfinish/Natural offers some terrific choices. It’s still sheer, not sparkly, and comes in good skin colors. These products can be a tad glowy ( which is the last thing you want from the contour that’s supposed to recede things not make them more noticeable), but it’s not so extreme as to get in the way. For light skin tones, the Mediums to Medium-Dark and beyond are brilliant. 

Not sure of your season? Pretty Your World is loaded with information and tips to help you. 

Look at these shades

Lipstick : Clinique Glosswear Kissy Fit ;  Bobbi Brown Bright Pink gloss; Revlon MineralGlaze Gloss in Continuous Pink and Eternal Blossom (Infinite Rose ? Nope, that’s for Cool Summer)

Blush: Clinique Iced Lotus; NARS Mata Hari

Eyeliner: Clarins Waterproof Gris/Grey 03 ; MAC Technakohl Earthline

Eyes: Bobbi Brown Tan ; MAC Omega ; you need a grey and a brown that look like this,

Summer and Winter Grey/Brown

Eye hilite : Bobbi Brown Ivory or Shell ; MAC Yogurt

These are guidelines to get your eye looking at the right colors. They won’t be different next year even if the ad campaigns say they will. Try the products first to hit your own bull’s eye.

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The palest pinkest women. A friend of mine sees a dermatologist who refers to her coloring as “you pasty white chicks”. That’s got to be Light Summer.
The most difficult makeup choice this group has to make is with bronzer/contour. You can struggle at the makeup counter with all the too-yellow-for-you bronzers, and that includes the light and golden ones most of the time.

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Makeup Model : Soft Autumn

March 28, 2009

Autumn colors are deeper than Spring to be sure. But they’re not darkened by adding gray(as Summer is) or black (because that’s Winter).

These are browner colors. They toasty and golden, coppered, and bronzed. The degree depends on which Autumn. If you could distill Autumn down to one color, it would be brown, which would include the variations of gold and orange.Happy Fall welcome sign.

Soft Autumn is not as deep and warm as the other 2 Autumns. They’re quietly warm like in the picture above. Their toned-down richness makes them closer to neutral. This means that they’re easily confused with Soft Summer, who also have a subdued strength in their coloring. Soft Summer is neutral too but is more cool than warm.

This season is so soft, in fact, that it approaches neutral but just lingers on the warm side of the line. Like who? Drew Barrymore. She can be a cool blonde but she looks better warmed up a little more. Lindsay Lohan, on the other hand, cannot be blonde nearly as well as red because her coloring is too committed to Autumn’s warmth.

Drew-Barrymore-41ff80bb361c

 

Drew Barrymore.

Can you see how good it can be when you get it right? There’s no contest. Color Analysis works.

Lips: Clinique LongLast Glosswear Sunset ; Almay Ideal Gloss in Bronze Shimmer; Clinique Glow Bronze lipstick.

Blush: MAC Trace Gold. Don’t just fluff this color on. Apply it with feeling (meaning a firm stroke of the brush) to really get the color, not just the shimmer.

All Autumns should know that they can transform their many too-pink blush mistakes to a great burnished shade with Trace Gold. It works best for the Soft Autumns who wear warm pink better than the other Autumns. 

Eyeliner: Clinique Chocolate Lustre.

Eyes: Cargo Warm Neutral Palette ; MAC Era.

 

Cargo Warm Neutral palette.

Cargo Warm Neutral palette.

Eye hilite : MAC Shroom. This is an all-purpose under brow eye color. It would suit all the seasons, certainly all the warm ones. Paula’s  Choice Beige is another completely versatile under brow hiliter for all the seasons, at a fraction of the price, and is really perfect because it has no shine.

The disclaimer : Don’t buy it if you don’t try it. These are color guidelines to give you a sense of what you should be looking at.

The colors are getting warmer now, but there’s some heat on the way and things are going to get a whole lot hotter.

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Soft Autumn is not as deep and warm as the other 2 Autumns. They’re quietly warm. Their toned-down richness makes them closer to neutral. This means that they’re easily confused with Soft Summer, who also have a subdued strength in their coloring. Soft Summer is neutral too but is more cool than warm.

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Makeup Model : Cool Summer

March 7, 2009

Your coloring is very cool. Once you resist the temptation to follow the crowd with golden hair, and allow your hair to have its natural silvery-gray-blond color, you will never look better. These women seem few and far between in the real world, maybe because so many are choosing the wrong, warm hair color.

 You look horrible in golden brown, but nobody can carry off a muted fuchsia better than you can.  You look terrific in blues and soft blue-purple colors. 

Your lip and cheek colors comes from the dusty pink-purple colors found in lilacs.

Lilacs.

You’re not particularly pale. Your coloring is of a medium intensity in hair and eye color and the two blend together. This is a gorgeous season, with pink veering to blue, and greys that are almost silver. Your most flattering eye makeup is mushroom brown and blue-type greys.

Look at how much better Farrah Fawcett looks in grey-blond (ash) hair. The very yellow hair doesn’t bring out the flush in her skin and lips nearly as well.

farah-fawcett-40628aae03d7

farah fawcett

Ryan-Neal-Farah-Fawc-470ea2191235

Ryan ONeal and Farah Fawcett

Linda Evans looks great in grey-blond hair and will look great in silvery grey hair, as Paul Newman did.

dynasty-E476eb7540878

dynasty

The makeup reminds me of these shades,

Rose 10.

Denise Richards cannot pull off yellow hair

Denise-Richards-48759bbd2cf1

Denise Richards

but Paris Hilton, a Light Spring, was made for it.

Paris-Hilton-4037a26da5a1

Paris Hilton

Looks at this makeup next time you’re shopping.

Lipstick: Clinique Glosswear Stellar Plum.

Blush: Bobbi Brown Soft Pink; NARS Outlaw.

Eyeliner: Clinique Quickliner Smoky Taupe; Estee Lauder  Automatic Eye Pencil Duo Plum Grey.

Eyes: Bobbi Brown Slate and Heather ; MAC Scene.

Eye hilite : Bobbi Brown Shell.

Mascara:  Dark Charcoal.

Here’s another Cool Summer. The grayer the hair gets, the better the skin looks.

Bo Derek.

 For those of you uncertain about what Cool Summer means, you can learn more about Color Analysis and figure out your own season at Pretty Your World.

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Your coloring is very cool. Once you resist the temptation to follow the crowd with golden hair, and allow your hair to have its natural silvery-gray-blond color, you will never look better. These women seem few and far between in the real world, maybe because so many are choosing the wrong, warm hair color.

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Makeup Model : Warm Autumn

March 4, 2009

This is me. How much time do you have?

Can a Season share makeup?

My good friend and sister-in-law, Holly is a Warm Autumn, just as I am. Over the years, I’ve noticed that we can wear exactly the same makeup colors even though her hair and eyes are not the same color as mine.

I started looking at women and have decided this holds true for all women within the same season in the 12 Season scheme. (What is a 12 Season scheme? Read more in Sites To Know : Pretty Your World). The overall color palette and degree of contrast are similar enough to produce makeup palettes customized to your coloring.

If you’re a Light Spring, the makeup that suits you will suit all Light Springs. There may be some that are deeper or lighter than you, so the makeup may look a little different but overall, you will look great in the same shades. 

Can you have intensity and light lips?

 I don’t like dark lips on anybody. Just a personal thing. They make us look older no matter how perfectly shaped the lips are.

 But Warm Autumn needs intensity in makeup to balance strong golden undertones in the skin and the rich clothing colors that suit us so well. I continue to make the mistake of wearing lip colors that are too coral, trying to get a light lip but with color.

Brown alone can look flat and dead… but Autumn does better with brown than anybody. Shimmer is the only way I know to get some intensity and add life to brown, without adding darkness or orange-ness. Brown and toasty/metallic work naturally to become gold and copper and bronze and everything in between. This is what Autumn is all about.

I make the mistake of too much orange in blush too. Candy colors don’t work on this season’s makeup. They have to be natural (meaning warmth added to brown). The strength of this coloring (actually the large amount of warmth in the skin) can cope with metallics in small doses better than the more delicately colored seasons.

Think about Julianne Moore. Her skin isn’t dark but there is enough golden-beige in it that the whole color picture is fairly intense. Dressing her in watered down colors wouldn’t have nearly the kick that deeper warmer colors would have.

Julianne-Moore-46ef9c775c8e

Julianne Moore

You’d put a shimmery copper on her and have it disappear into the face long before it would on Gwyneth Paltrow. Why? Because that is already one of the colors nature put in her overall color design. The sign of a great color for you is that it just gets absorbed into the coloring your face already has. With that kind of color, you can load it on and look real. You can color a little outside your natural lip line and look believable instead of dorky.

Here’s your makeup

Lips: MAC Honey Flower (too brown, dark, and orange alone on me) mixed with MAC Ramblin Rose (more warm coral) or MAC Jubilee (more neutral).  MAC Plastique is a fabulous peachy brown metallic, too light on its own though (light and frosty is the formula for ash-colored lips, so it has to be mixed). With those 4 MAC lipsticks, you can create many many good shades. If you like more red color, start mixing in MAC Mocha.

 

From L, all MAC, Plastique, Jubilee, HoneyFlower, Ramblin Rose.

From L, all MAC, Plastique, Jubilee, HoneyFlower, Ramblin Rose.

 

All this mixing, what a pain, ay? No, no, no ! This is how you learn to customize your colors and how a mixture of 2 colors always always always looks better than a single color alone. Just load a Quo Retractable Lip Brush with your color(s) of the day when you’re doing your AM makeup and you’re set. You can get enough on the brush for 3-4 touchups. Lipstick applied with a brush looks better and lasts way longer, no doubt about it.

Blush: Dior Sunkissed Cinnamon. The price of this stuff is deadly but I like the sheerness and softness of the color. It might look a little pink on you, depending on your skin, more true to its brown-pink name. My skin turns pink to peach, brown to peach, and peach to orange. 

Christian Dior Glowing Blush Sunkissed Cinnamon

Since the color is soft, you can’t see the edges of the blush. What does that mean? Go see the movie Confessions of a Shopaholic and see if you can pick out where Isla Fisher’s blush begins and ends. Also, as a soft color, it looks fresher and younger than a darker or browner color.

The photo is linked to the product at StrawberryNET, which holy cow, if you don’t know it, is worth a look around for the freebies, discounts, sales, selection, and that’s before we talk about Free Shipping Worldwide.

If you like more noticeable color, look at Dior SugarNSpice.

Eyeliner: Dark Brown; there’s thousands of them.

Eyes: MAC Brule, Cork, Soba.

This is a palette of those same colors on a white background. They look dark on the white. I just threw in the gloss for fun. It’s a Chanel Glossimer, color name long worn off. 

Fight with Photoshop though I do, every single day, this is the closest I could digitally match the lip colors (Honey Flower is not here). They’re close but not exact.

The Warm Autumn makeup palette.

Look at what happens to those exact same colors on the golden beige skin of a Warm Autumn. Only the background layer’s color has been changed. Suddenly, they’re much closer to what they look like when a Warm Autumn puts them on her face.

The Warm Autumn on skin.

Try this out next time you’re shopping and let me know. Convince me I’m wrong.

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My good friend and sister-in-law, Holly is a Warm Autumn, just as I am. Over the years, I’ve noticed that we can wear exactly the same makeup colors even though her hair and eyes are not the same color as mine.
I started looking at women and have decided this holds true for all women within the same season in the 12 Season scheme.
If you’re a Light Spring, the makeup that suits you will suit all Light Springs. There may be some that are deeper or lighter than you, so the makeup may look a little different but overall, you will look great in the same shades.

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