RSSMakeup Model : Cool Winter
July 15, 2009
Edit June 23/10 – Just a note to be sure everyone knows that this Makeup Model series of articles was posted before I became a Color Analyst. The articles have been very popular, so I leave them up, but the makeup recommendations are not necessarily those I’d make today. For anyone interested in more accurate Season and color advice, do look at 12blueprints.com or join the 12 Blueprints Fan Club on Facebook.
Cool Winter is the equivalent of True Winter. The colors are clear (meaning not grayed or browned; even the gray is sharp and clean) and cooled with blue. There is no warmth in these colors. This is fascinating skin when it wears black because the skin takes on a milky translucency and the flaws seem to vanish.
When contrast is high, as are the Winter seasons, the whites are pure white and the blacks are deep black. Low contrast means less difference between the lights and the darks – think of Jennifer Aniston compared to Catherine Zeta-Jones. On a black and white TV, low contrast looks like a lot of grays. When the coloring is low contrast, the shades in the palette are also closer to one another in intensity.
Here is what high contrast looks like:
It makes sense that this is only group that wear black or white extremely well, since they are the extreme high and low of the contrast scale. It also follows that the light colors are the very lightest and the very deepest of the same shades – the lightest and the deepest pinks, grays, and blues to keep the contrast high.
The more you work the particular strengths of your season, the more together your look will be. Winter is a season of stark clarity and respecting that will work the feeling best. If Spring bubbles, Summer flows, and Autumn glows. Winter gleams like platinum. This is not a season for fussy details. The colors are a little hard and the look is dramatic. There is no need to be shy with color intensity. The stronger the color, the healthier the season looks.
You can heighten your season’s impression in many more ways than colour alone. Cool Winter (True Winter), using the types of colours above, can maximize their cool, clean, shiny, expensive effect by avoiding more than 2 or 3 colours together, and choosing colours that contrast strongly. Monochromatic looks have no sparkle here, but on a Summer (low contrast season), they create a soft shine. Diamonds vs. opals. Satin vs. cotton.
Because Winter glistens, you can wear shinier makeup. After 40, shimmer and frost on a rough (wrinkled) surface draws attention to the wrong thing. On skin that stays fairly smooth, like just under the brow, a little shine in your highlighter could look good. A trace of satiny gleam in your grey eyeshadow is quite believable.
What does this season wear as contour/bronzer? There is not a lot of yellow, orange, or gold inherent in this skin. It is about blue and red. Women with darker skin pigments have more brown, but then don’t need bronzer.
Cool Winter looks odd with a tan. The other 2 Winters are blended with a little Autumn or Spring and can carry a little warming of the skin more believably because there is a little warmth in the skin already.
It has to be cool. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Soft Matte Bronzer (not the duo) may be good. There’s little orange or yellow in it. Use it more as a contour but don’t use a lot. EL’s Lucidity Translucent powder in Medium Deep and Deep, depending on your skin tone, would be worth a try.
Colour Tour
Lipstick: Estee Lauder Gloss Stick in Wild Plum ; EL Long Last in Red Apple ; EL Signature in Lush Rose. MAC Slimshine Grenadine, very comfortable lipcolor.
I think red lips are about as wearable IRL as black eyeliner, which is to say not. It is hard looking because these are dark, cold, strong colors. Pure red and pure black also carry too much emotional signal, at least for medium-and-lighter skin tones. If you feel you must, EL Signature Rich Red is a contender. MAC Slimshine in Urgent is too.
Blush: NARS Sin ; MAC Pink Swoon, Coygirl. Kevyn Aucoin Liquifuchsia .
What I would really like to find is a pure red blush. Slightly red-violet would work too. Does anyone know of a pure red blush? It’s not made because nobody would be confident enough to buy it, but a sheer wash of real red on Winter skin is awesome.
Eyeliner: MUFE Aqua Eyes Waterproof eyeliner 1L ; MAC Suite Array Pearlglide liner in Black Russian; Clinique Quickliner in Black Brown.
Eyeshadow: Stila Kalahoo, Kamet, Shore, Storm, and Nanda Devi at TNBTTGSY. This woman is doing a better job than the makeup companies themselves.
Mary Kay Crystalline and Onyx duet, very nice. Not too dark. A clean, cool beauty. Brown gets muddy in a hurry on these people, but a sharp gray is gorgeous. I asked a woman wearing this the name of the colour but I don’t see it at Mary Kay’s site. Steel looks close.
Eye hilite : PC Cream and Shell. These are matte and good. If you want to try a little shimmer here, it can work. Look for icy pale colours.
Comments
19 Responses to “Makeup Model : Cool Winter”
Got something to say? I hope so.
Get daily makeup and colour updates. Join the 12 Blueprints Fan Club on Facebook! A Click on the box will take you there.
-
A Greener Tea
Web Maintenence by Rick Beckman
Aromaleigh, an online mineral makeup company (though they also have some traditional and hybrid cosmetics as well), makes a pretty, reddish blush called Corset. I find that it has to be applied with a fairly light hand, but it looks very nice paired with Lollypop, its cherry-red lipcolor counterpart. http://www.aromaleigh.com/yodopuroinc.html
Sorry about the double post. Aromaleigh’s Rocks! hybrid line (minerals with FD&C dyes for bold colors) also has the Firewoman blush, which appears to have more kick than Corset. I hear that it’s more wearable than one might think when applied lightly (and under foundation). Because I’ve never tried it, I can’t really tell you how it looks in person. There’s also a warmer red, Cherrybomb. Also, since you mentioned not being into mineral makeup yourself, NARS apparently has some very red blushes. http://karlasugar.blogspot.com/2009/01/nars-blush-recap.html
Having recently been analyzed as a Cool Winter by Lora, I finally understand why even some neutral colors just don’t look right on me. On another front, it’s also finally sinking in that playing up only one facial feature at a time is preferable. (^.^ ) With that said, I have a couple of questions. How does one work a natural lip for a Cool Winter, especially one with medium-toned skin? Also, how does one manage a natural eye with high-contrast colors?
Hi, Ashley,
How do mean “only playing up one feature at at time”? Do you mean emphasizing lips OR eyes? I might have a diverging opinion on that
In no particular order, here would be my thoughts (and I’m first to admit that I thought differently 6 months ago)
- your colour analysis revealed the exact shades of each colour already present in your body; when you replicate those colours exactly in clothes or makeup, the effect FEELS GOOD to look at; the makeup colours virtually diffuse into your skin because they’re already there; like colours find one another; if you choose eye and face colours right from your swatch book, they should look balanced and natural.
- though young women can wear a nude lip (meaning pale lip, NOT flesh tone because “flesh tones” belong to the Autumn seasons mostly, maybe Spring) because they have great lip definition, women over 40 need more colour or they look old and flat; lipstick brings vitality and colour to the face and its intensity should balance the intensity of the hair pretty well
- I’m not a smoky eyes, or any other multi-shadow design type of person; I haven’t the time for it; makeup shouldn’t be complicated and once an instruction diagram is needed, it’s not for me; you get the colour right, you swipe it on with a little understanding of your face structure and the placement of light and dark, you get on with your day.
- high contrast colour will look natural on you if you are already a high contrast person; they will blend in; so as a True Winter (sorry, Lora and I use slightly different terminology), your eyeshadow highlight is icy pink or palest icy grey, your shadow is clear, cool, crisp grey (perhaps a little brown in it if you veer towards Dark Winter, like Clinique’s Totally Neutral set), your eyeliner is charcoal, your blush and lip are soft fuchsia, red-violet, or cool plum.
Ask me more questions if I haven’t quite answered.
Ashley,
Those are indeed some nice colours. I liked Corset and Dolly. I didn’t know of this brand at all. I’m not a wild fan of loose powder makeup but I’m a BIG fan of good colours. Great swatch enlargement option too.
Hi Christine,
I looked at the swatches for Chanel’s lip colors 2009 (karlasugar’s link above for the eye quad) and I absolutely adore the Rose Rebelle and the Euphoria! I always seem to be drawn to those colors, those elusive pink-reds with that lovely warmish touch that are so hard to find in real life. I guess I’m asking a lot here, but just from a quick glance, could you tell which season they’d look good on?
Another question: is there such a thing as a “Soft Winter”? Meaning, Deep Winter leaning towards Autumn, Clear Winter towards Spring, but what if a person still need the strong colors of Winter but ever so slightly subdued/softened/rose-browned? Or do those people automatically fall into Summer?
Hi again,
I meant to write: “Meaning, a Deep Winter is leaning towards Autumn, a Clear Winter is leaning towards Spring, but what if…” Sorry for the spelling mistakes!
Hi, Kristina,
Rose Rebelle looks to have a fair bit of brown in it. Strikes me as Dark Autumn/Dark Winter. Looks like MAC Viva Glam VI, a terracotta plum colour.
Euphoria is brighter and could be any Winter. It’s difficult to tell how dark it is or how warm because of the sunlight.
The word Soft implies low contrast, which is quite opposite to what defines Winter’s use of colour, so no, there are no Soft Winters.
Maybe what you are wondering is “Could there be a lighter Winter?”. But, no, there isn’t. There is no need. With drapes, the people whose colouring just can’t manage Winter’s dark drapes look great in Summer, if they are purely cool. There are some colour analysis companies that I respect hugely, like Color Me A Season that do provide for a Winter mixed with Summer, and a Summer with a touch of Winter, but I don’t see the need for it.
If you’re a Summer, I may have to eat my drapes. You have a Winter eye, no question. There is some heat in your eye, as a green/amber that could be a blend with Autumn. I could even tell myself it’s a golden glow that would be a Winter/Spring blend.
Winter/Spring or Bright Winter is rare where I live. The only one I can think may give that impression would be the actress, Zooey Deschanel, but she has a lighter eye.
I’d love to help you with this. Do look at Estee Lauder Double Wear in Stay Ruby. It is gorgeous and seems to adapt differently to everyone. Layer something over it and it’s still gorgeous.
- “Do you mean emphasizing lips OR eyes?”
Yes.
- “though young women can wear a nude lip (meaning pale lip, NOT flesh tone because “flesh tones” belong to the Autumn seasons mostly, maybe Spring) because they have great lip definition, women over 40 need more colour or they look old and flat; lipstick brings vitality and colour to the face and its intensity should balance the intensity of the hair pretty well.”
I’m in my early twenties, so it wouldn’t be a problem, but I was under the impression that Winters need a darker lip to “ground” their coloring. Also, I tend to think “ugh” whenever I try a color lighter than my lips.
- “high contrast colour will look natural on you if you are already a high contrast person; they will blend in; so as a True Winter (sorry, Lora and I use slightly different terminology), your eyeshadow highlight is icy pink or palest icy grey, your shadow is clear, cool, crisp grey (perhaps a little brown in it if you veer towards Dark Winter, like Clinique’s Totally Neutral set), your eyeliner is charcoal, your blush and lip are soft fuchsia, red-violet, or cool plum.”
I don’t think I have a light enough grey, though I do have some whites; silvers; a metallic taupe; and a pretty, light taupe-ish color that manages to look natural enough (a very appropriately named Seed Pearl). I did find that the dark grey I have does very little to define my eyes; I think this has to do with my skintone (I still have some of my summer tan, so I currently wear a mix of 1/3 Medium and 2/3 Deep). Berry/wine colors I have plenty of, as well a nice neutral-cool red which I can wear either alone or layered over lipbalm for less color and some fuschia/deep pinkish colors. Same for cheeks.
- “Ask me more questions if I haven’t quite answered.”
I do have one other question. You said that True Winters look odd with a tan. Were you referring to a natural tan, a fake tan, or both?
- “Those are indeed some nice colours. I liked Corset and Dolly. I didn’t know of this brand at all. I’m not a wild fan of loose powder makeup but I’m a BIG fan of good colours. Great swatch enlargement option too.”
I was the person whose shadows were always breaking in my purse anyway, so the powder hasn’t been so bad in that aspect. I did have some leaking here and there, and I have to be careful with some of my eyeshadows now, because lots of product has been shaken into the top through carrying it in my purse; I’ve tried to remedy that by putting my makeup in an organizer. They do have some really nice shades. I’ll probably be switching to another company for foundation, since despite their vast offering, I’d still have to mix green into my foundation, and I found a place that offers olive foundation; but I’m definitely spoiled for Aromaleigh’s eye shadows.
Hi Christine and thank you so much for your reply!
I had a look at Zooey Deschanel. She looks much brighter than I’ve even been, and as you say her eyes are much lighter. She really has gorgeous coloring!
You say I have a Winter eye “with some heat”. That’s probably very true. People that look at me in person always say things like “You must be an Autumn”, “You definitely have warm colors” etc. It might be my flushed cheeks that take them in that direction. It’s so confusing. I guess I have a hard time with the Winter choice just because the colors are so – oh, I don’t know, striking. I feel like a softer person, but I might be confusing my personality with my coloring!
Thus my question if there is a softer Winter.
I’ll go and have a look at Stay Ruby and see what it does to my face. Ruby colors in general make my facial features look almost harsh, I get an angry look, a haggard look. I prefer softer colors – I really like Clinique’s lipstick Beauty (it was a lightbulb moment when I tried it on, it was an instant “yes!” in the mirror). It goes on corally but turns into a soft mauve on me. I also love an eyeshadow from Alima Pure called Chai, which is a brownish-pink champagne color that makes my eyes pop. Anything gray or too dark on my eyes and there I go again, I look tired. Rosey browns look great though.
I’ll let you know of my progress. Thank you for taking the time!
Hi again,
I don’t know if this works, but I would like to post a link to a picture of Juliette Binoche. I don’t know what she is season-wise, but I can identify with her coloring. I love the way she looks in this picture, especially the softness of her lip color. That’s the kind of color that usually looks really good on me also (and it’s similar to what Clinique’s Beauty looks like on me). Feel free to comment!
http://imstars.aufeminin.com/stars/fan/juliette-binoche/juliette-binoche-20040421-611.jpg
I agree that Winters need lip colour to balance the whole look, and cheek colour too. There’s a long-standing trend in lip makeup to use a flesh-tone and make the eye design more dominant. I think that’s magazine territory. Most regular women can’t do the look without looking plain weird. Also, Winter’s colours require some self-confidence and understanding of colour. I think they’re also harder to find and less numerous, just because women don’t know who should wear them or they stick to the safe flesh-tones and nudes. Hence, the profusion of those shades. I used to like those nude lips myself, but I didn’t understand colour the way I do today.
I find True Winter and True Summer, whose colouring is defined by the absence of any warmth, look artificial in a tan. Elizabeth Taylor, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Jaclyn Smith, IMO, they look crisp, clean, and fresh with their clear, cool skin. Tans look muddy, orangey, and make their face look puffy and their features crowded in the center of the face. They lose the whole feeling and power of the look. If they took a powder in 2 shades darker than the perfect match, to contour and sculpt the face, that’s fine.
Kristina,
She has very bright colouring, doesn’t she, but very Winterish. The quirky personality, the yellow in the eye, seems like a Spring blend to me. The skin around your eyes in more orange than yellow. If I had to guess for you, I’d say you’re the same as I am, Dark Winter. Our colours are far more cool and strong and dark than they are anything else, but they are touched with warmth and brown.
Stay Ruby alone is quite pink on me. On others, it’s reddish brown. I layer it with a browner lipstick and it is superb. Lasts hours, no wandering whatsoever, very comfortable, no real need for gloss. Since you mentioned Rose Rebelle, I’ve been layering it with MAC Viva Glam VI and love it. It has impact certainly, but I like getting used to it.
A nice picture. I wonder if it’s been edited. I recall your eyes as far darker, less topaz or amber. While I don’t dislike the lip, well, you know, what could look bad on her? They’ve toned it down to make your attention go to the eye. On you, I’d see that lip as wishy-washy. It looks almost naked. This is the problem with comparing real life with ads, ay? It took them 5 hours and 250 shots and special lights to get that picture. I see you in something that makes more statement, balances your eyes and your hair. Now, if you like a soft lip, this is pretty. She is indeed beautiful. If I could trade my looks, I would choose her or Natalie Portman.
Hi Christine,
I couldn’t agree with you more!!! And thank you for putting another smile on my face today – “”5 hours and 250 shots”… Yes, that’s probably very true! But she is indeed beautiful. I saw a few pictures with her in a ruby-purple dress with a ruby colored lipstick. It doesn’t look bad on her, since nothing really could look bad on her. (Except for when she went blond for a while, that didn’t do much for her.) The ruby colors make her skin really milky white, which is nice, but I guess I just like her in softer colors…
You might be right about the wishy-washy effect a nude lipstick would have on me. I think I’m a person that doesn’t like being looked at too much, I’m pretty shy. Maybe that would explain why I have a hard time accepting the Winter colors so much. There’s no not getting noticed in Winter colors!!!
You are a Dark Winter, Christine (and let me just say how beautiful you look in the blue and black colors you wear in the Reveal Photos aritcle) – can you wear moss, dark lime and pine? In my book “Color Me Confident” by Color Me Beautiful UK, those colors are in the Dark (or as they say, Deep) Winter palette. I look jaundiced in those colors. REALLY jaundiced.
Hi Christine,
I just wanted to say it here as well: I found my season. Yes, finally! I’m a Clear Winter. The Raspberry Rush you suggested is spot on. It was like hitting a home run. Wow!
That explains why I never felt entirely at peace with the Deep Winter colors. Those colors were just too dark and heavy for me. That also explains why the Deep Autumn colors always made me look and feel tired and heavy, like they dragged my mood down.
Clear Winter! Yes, it’s me!
Thank you so much, Christine. T-H-A-N-K Y-O-U!
Kristina,
You’re so welcome. I am thrilled for you that you were able to figure this out. Feel free to send pictures!!
Still looking for that red blush? Exhibit A by Nars is bright red, and a line called NYX has a cream one called “red cheek.” (http://www.nyxcosmetics.com/index.php?pf=CB).
I stopped by a costume shop today and picked up Ben Nye’s Persimmon. It’s really an eye shadow, but works as a blush and is sheerer than it looks. It has a bit of warmth in it, so it would probably be better for a bright winter/spring. Azalea is a fuchsia/pink but has a similar intensity.
Funny you’d ask. I think I found True Summer’s blush (next post) in Outlaw. I looked at Exhibit A here, but it must photograph differently. My best Winter red-violet so far is Lancome Aplum, but I’m going to give NARS Crazed a try.
http://karlasugar.blogspot.com/2009/01/nars-blush-recap.html
Aromaleigh’s “Melancholia” (deep wine) sheer lip color, from their Gothic Lolita line, might work for this season. “Blankgeneration” Rocks! lip color I’m not so sure about, since it’s a warm purple (also sheer, to make it wearable).
What do you think about layering black over colors that are too light? It seems like it could work for a season like Autumn, since their colors are muted anyway; but on a True Winter, would compromise the clarity of the lipstick too much?